Lactic acid is one member of the well known family of alpha hydroxy acids. More gentle than it’s smaller counterpart glycolic acid, it’s a good choice for sensitive skin.
What is it and what does it do?
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid. It’s the second smallest molecule of all the alpha hydroxy acids, after glycolic acid. Because of this, it’s less irritating than glycolic acid, but less powerful. It’s a chemical exfoliant, helping to lift off dry, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, revealing newer cells underneath. It can also stimulate collagen production and helps keep the skin hydrated.
Why should I use it?
Lactic acid is great for brightening and smoothing the complexion. It can help fade hyperpigmentation, and improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and acne. It’s also commonly used for keratosis pilaris. It’s a good alpha hydroxy acid for those with sensitive skin, as it’s less irritating than glycolic acid.
How should I use it?
Lactic acid is available in various forms, including as a cleanser, a leave-on product such as a serum, or as a chemical peel. It’s best used in the evening, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun. Limit use to one to three times per week, or you run the risk of over-exfoliating your skin and damaging your skin barrier. It’s best to avoid using it at the same time as a retinoid, as both can be irritating. Use them on alternate nights instead.
What are the drawbacks?
Lactic acid can cause skin irritation, and can increase sun sensitivity. Always use sunscreen, and start using a small amount just once weekly, ideally to a test area of skin first.