Preventing and reducing the skin signs of ageing is one of the most common skincare queries. Fortunately, even though we can’t unwind the clock, there’s lots that can be done to reduce the signs of ageing, and it’s never too late (or early) to start!
What are the signs of skin ageing?
Signs of skin ageing include fine lines and wrinkles, areas of dryness, loss of plumpness, thinning and sagging skin. Others include enlarged pores, age spots and uneven skin tone.
What causes ageing skin?
Collagen and elastin are two proteins found in the skin, which help keep the skin plump, firm, and stretchy. As skin ages, there’s a reduction in collagen and elastin, a redistribution of fat, and slower cell turnover. This can lead to the skin appearing less plump, and more saggy and wrinkly. In addition, as we age there’s an increase in water loss through the skin, also known as transepidermal water loss, which contributes to dryness of the skin.
Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors influence ageing. Intrinsic factors include the passage of time and our genetics. Extrinsic factors include environmental factors such as sun exposure and pollution, and lifestyle factors such as smoking.
What can be done to improve the appearance of ageing skin?
To improve the appearance of ageing skin, strict sun protection and a good moisturiser is essential. Key topical agents that help include antioxidants such as vitamin C and niacinamide, and topical retinoids. Alpha hydroxy acids, used either in leave-on products or in higher concentrations in chemical peels, can be useful. Dermal fillers can help replace volume loss, and muscle relaxants such as botulinum toxin can help reduce the appearance of some wrinkles by relaxing certain facial muscles.
There are a range of lasers that can help improve signs of ageing in various ways, by evening out pigmentation, treating dilated blood vessels, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and stimulating collagen production. Intense pulsed light can improve skin tone, and radiofrequency treatments can help improve skin texture and fine lines. The use of ultrasound technology can help with skin tightening. The use of platelet-rich plasma has been suggested for anti-ageing, in particular improving skin texture, but the evidence supporting its use is limited.
I’d like to take steps to prevent and treat skin ageing. Where should I start?
Step 1: A healthy lifestyle, including limiting sun exposure and avoiding smoking.
Step 2: Sunscreen: SPF 50+, 365 days a year. And plenty of it.
Step 3: A topical retinoid, at night (providing you’re not pregnant), alternating with an alpha hydroxy acid.
Step 4. Antioxidants in the morning, such as vitamin C and/or niacinamide.
See the relevant posts for more information on how to incorporate these items into your routine. Always start slowly with one new ingredient at a time, and do a test patch first. If after incorporating these for several months you’re still not seeing the results you’re after, it may be worth seeing a dermatologist for a skin assessment and advice regarding other treatment options for you.
